Behind the Runway With b. michael

By Keith Boykin, in pop culture
Friday, September 8 2006, 11:17AM

It's fashion week in New York. This is the time when the industry leaders from around the world gather in the Big Apple to create and determine the fashion trends for next year. Although it's technically still summer of 2006, this is considered Spring 2007 fashion week because the collections being shown are for the next big season. And one of the most watched fashion designers in the industry is b. michael.

As one of the leading black designers in the industry, b. will also be putting his new collection on the line this Sunday for his own fashion week show. So what's it like being a successful fashion designer in a tightly-controlled industry? I spoke to b. this week to ask him about it.

INTERVIEW WITH b. michael

BOYKIN: Hi b. Thanks for doing the interview. So tell me, you have a big show this Sunday. What’s it like for you when you're preparing for a show?

B. MICHAEL: I guess it’s an emotional time because it’s when I’m at my most creative. It is also the time when I have to use both sides of my brain because it’s business and creating a collection means it's my next season and that impacts the success of our next season.

BOYKIN: What do you have in store for us for the coming season?

B. MICHAEL: This collection which I am showing during fashion week will feature two debut collections -- b. michael's signature, which is [a] demicouture collection and a sampling of b’homme, which is the b. michael menswear collection, scheduled to launch in February.

BOYKIN: So what made you branch out to menswear?

B. MICHAEL: Demand. Men are always commissioning me to do things for them. I also create my own clothes and I’m often questioned about them. It’s really another sensibility of mine...

BOYKIN: What's the significance of fashion week for you?

B. MICHAEL: For me, the significance is to be featured and respected as an American designer, so to be part of that roster, nationally and internationally it’s important. And on a personal note, as a person of color, I think it is also important.

BOYKIN: And would you say New York is the center of the fashion world?

B. MICHAEL: As much as I love Paris and I love Milan, New York really is. I think, for instance, in Paris, fashion might be taken more seriously, but I think New York is the capital as far as the industry.

BOYKIN: Where did you grow up?

B. MICHAEL: Connecticut...Born with the curse. Or blessing. I was born with the blessing. I always knew that I would be a fashion designer.

BOYKIN: Even in high school?

B. MICHAEL: Long before that. I just knew it. I’ve always sketched. I've always been interested in fabric and color. As far as I can remember, I would watch shows like 'I Love Lucy' and look at her dresses…

BOYKIN: Did your family support you?

B. MICHAEL: Yes they did. Once I made the decision.

BOYKIN: You have a daughter who has walked the runway in some of your shows. Is she interested in fashion too?

B. MICHAEL: She is not. She is a freshman at UConn. And she is studying business and entertainment law.

BOYKIN: No fashion at all?

B. MICHAEL: She has no interest in fashion, meaning she doesn’t want to be a designer and she doesn’t want to be a model. She’s envisioned someday that she might go after Neil’s job [as CEO of a fashion house].

BOYKIN: Is it harder for people of color in the industry?

B. MICHAEL: It is particularly harder for people of African descent. I would not necessarily say that other minorities have the same challenges.

BOYKIN: What challenges?

B. MICHAEL: From a business point of view, it has to do with raising capital and putting your infrastructure together. But also I think the challenge is the industry not knowing how to cast you. By that, If you’re not doing urban wear, it’s like okay, how do we cast this person?

BOYKIN: Does that apply to you?

B. MICHAEL: I consider myself to have mostly had a charmed life in the industry. However, I am not naïve. I’m sure that conversation has gone on. I’ve ignored it.

BOYKIN: What's your relationship with Neil Lowe?

B. MICHAEL: Neil is the CEO of the company. In the short time that he came and sort of re-started the business, he has put in place, for instance, a new infrastructure, which includes hiring a new managing director, etc, and redefined the brand.

BOYKIN: Redefined?

B. MICHAEL: It’s been redefined now as purely a luxury brand, and before I dibbed and dabbed in ready-to-wear. His vision is to establish it as a luxury brand, add the menswear and then to branch out into licensing to create a mainstream presence.

BOYKIN: Will the menswear line be a luxury line too?

B. MICHAEL: Yes it will be. Not too luxurious for you though Keith.

[Laughter]

BOYKIN: So do you have any favorite models to work with?

B. MICHAEL: I do but I shouldn’t mention names. But yes, there are some models, one in particular is almost like a runway muse for me. And this season, of course, adding the male models creates a new dynamic.

BOYKIN: I'm sure it will, at least for me. Well, thank you b. michael.

B. MICHAEL: You’re welcome.

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